Route Name: Thief of Joy

Application Status: Approved

Application Cycle: 2025

Rock Formation: Ridge One

Number of lead bolts to be placed: 12

Number of anchor bolts to be placed: 2

Route Difficulty: 5.13

Route Diagrams:

Proposed Route:

This new route climbs the overhanging wall on the west face of the summit tower at the top of Ridge One (Stairway to Heaven) in Skunk Canyon. The route will start just below the unnamed 5.10aR for approximately 20 feet below the corner in a steep cave. Permission was given by the FA party to climb into and cross this climb. Once out of the cave you enter the corner, and the route will continue straight up a beautiful techy and crimpy vertical face for another 65 feet. This climb will not share any bolts with the adjacent routes and will have its own two-bolt anchor. The route will be bolted so that you can either begin in the cave (5.13b) or begin on the pedestal (5.12a)

Name Meaning:

The route name is symbolic of the failure rate in climbing and a reminder to always have fun.

Existing Route Information

This route starts just below the main routes in the area and will round out the sport climbs in this area nicely. This climb is just down the hill from Later Creators (13c) and God’s Kingdom (12b) and just right of Heaven and Hell (13a). You will begin this climb in the cave below the existing rock pedestal and have its own start so it will not create traffic on the other routes.

Existing Route Diagrams

Approach Description:

To reach the west face of Ridge One, you hike up to Hillbilly Rock and continue up for 3-5 minutes along the descent trail for “Stairway to Heaven.” This climber’s trail is comprised of dirt and rock and clearly marked with rock cairns. The descent drops you off at a saddle just north of the summit of Ridge One, from where you hike a down a separate climber’s trail in a wide gully for about 50’ to the base of the proposed route.

Approach Photographs

Descent Description:

Climber will lower off the chains back to the belay.

Base Area Description:

The base of the route is comprised of rock as shown in the photo below. There is no vegetation on or near either staging area—it’s all rock and dirt. The climb begins in a rock cave or on an existing/natural rock pedestal.

Base Area Photographs

Reconnaissance Work:

Yes, this route has been inspected for rock quality, and the suggested rating of 12a for the stand and 13b for the cave start. The route has been top roped/inspected on rappel and from the ground.

Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?

Yes, this route has been top roped at the top and holds have been observed for the bottom. The cave will need some cleaning similar to Hellbound (5.13c) and not much cleaning is required for the corner and vertical face sections.

Any additional notes:

Not provided

Descent Photographs

Not provided