Route Name: Soul Rebel

Application Status: Approved

Application Cycle: 2025

Rock Formation: Fiddlehead

Number of lead bolts to be placed: 7

Number of anchor bolts to be placed: 2

Route Difficulty: 5.12+

Route Diagrams:

Proposed Route:

The proposed route ascends an arete on the west side of the Fiddlehead, branching off from the start of the existing route “Fernal Crescent” (published as “Fertile Crescent”). The route shares a start below an obvious, striking dihedral about 30 ft downhill from Castles Made of Sand, and branches right on the overhanging arete while Fernal Crescent ascends the dihedral. The route is short and bouldery, featuring cool movement on excellent rock, terminating in a boulder problem crux as the climber moves vertically onto the face. The route is about 45 ft long, and very sustained.

Name Meaning:

The route name, Soul Rebel, is a classic Gladiators song.

 

Existing Route Information

 Fernal Crescent, trad, 5.11+ (published as Fertile Crescent)  Castles Made of Sand, sport, 5.12  A Shadow Sickness, trad, 5.10

Existing Route Diagrams

 

Approach Description:

The approach follows the well-established climber’s trail to the Fiddlehead. Approach via the Fern Canyon Trail, breaking off to the north on the climber’s trail near the Superfresh boulder. Follow the standard climber’s trail to approach to the base.

 

Approach Photographs

 

Descent Description:

Climbers can descend by lowering off the route with a 50m rope. Climbers will then reverse the approach in.

 

Base Area Description:

The base of the climb is solid rock and dirt.

 

Base Area Photographs

 

Reconnaissance Work:

Yes. The route has been scoped and top roped, and all of the moves have been freed.

 

Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?

Yes – the route has been mostly freed on TR. The route is fairly overhanging, and the rock is solid.

 

Any additional notes:

Not provided

 

Descent Photographs

Not provided

 

10 replies
  1. Adam Block
    Adam Block says:

    Looks cool but the first couple bolts look quite close to Fernal possibly changing its heady nature down low.

    • Tristan Bradford
      Tristan Bradford says:

      Hey Adam. Im in touch with Eric Doub and we’re taking this into account. Plan is to make it so that you still pull that first move with the pin, and then shift right and clip a bolt which would not make sense to clip from fernal crescent. So most would just stick clip B1 of Soul rebel and be safe that way. The anchor will also serve as an anchor for Fernal Crescent instead of that nasty sling around a horn.

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