Route Name: Spider Crack

Application Status:

Application Cycle: 2026

Rock Formation: Fiddlehead

Number of lead bolts to be placed: 17

Number of anchor bolts to be placed: 2

Route Difficulty: P1: 12-. , P2: 13+/14-

Route Diagrams:

Proposed Route:

The proposed route will add a wild and difficult new pitch up the middle of Fiddlehead’s severely overhanging headwall between Spider Candy and Doors of Stone. The route will also add a new entry pitch to this area of Fiddlehead just right of Doors of Stone.

Name Meaning:

The name references the adjacent route (Spider Candy) and the fact that this route follows a crack.

Existing Route Information

The other routes on the lower section of The Fiddlehead are Chains of Love 5.12b, about 100 feet uphill. Heart of Stone, 512c, right next to Chains. Spider Candy 5.13c, just left of the proposed route, Stemadilemma 5.11d. The proposed route will cross Doors of Stone (a new route in progress), with P1 to the right and P2 to the left of Doors of Stone. Additional routes one hundred feet downhill include A Shadow Sickness 5.10c and Castles Made of Sand 5.11d. 

Existing Route Diagrams

Approach Description:

The approach follows the Fern Canyon trail to the standard climber’s trail to Chains of Love. The climber’s trail leaves the hiking trail at the toe of The Nebel Horn Ridge and follows the base of it’s east face, climbing uphill until one can contour north across large boulders to the bottom of the Fiddle head. 

Approach Photographs

Descent Description:

The decent will be from bolted anchors at the top of the route and the same trail as the approach.

Base Area Description:

The staging area at the base of the proposed route is mostly bare rock and dirt. There is a boulder structure below that naturally reinforces it and will prevent erosion. The decent will be from bolted anchors at the top of the route and the same trail as the approach.

Base Area Photographs

Reconnaissance Work:

P2 of the route was thoroughly inspected during the installation of Spider Candy, and P1 of the route was inspected during installation of Doors of Stone.

Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?

Not provided

Any additional notes:

Not provided

Descent Photographs

Not provided